From Riga, Latvia to Tallinn, Estonia: Kick-starting Russian Orthodox Icon Research

By Sophie Works, Florida State University

Привет! Sophie here. Within my first few days in Tallinn, Estonia, I’ll be writing about
how I am continuing to prepare for my research project on Russian Orthodox icons
while using my past experience in Riga, Latvia to guide me.

Throughout this process, I am excited to continue the development of my Russian
language skills through attending classes at Tallinn University in the heart of the city
center. As a vast majority of the citizens in this area speak Russian as a first, second, or
third language, I will have an unlimited amount of opportunities to practice speaking and
listening in real-world situations. As this skill is integral for conducting fieldwork in
Estonia’s Orthodox churches, I am very much looking forward to my classwork.

Additionally, I am improving my communication skills and knowledge of museum
bureaucracy. As part of my preparation for this project, I emailed the Kadriorg, one of
Estonia’s national art museums, as well as the Museum of Russian Icons, which speaks
for itself, to ask what objects they have that fit my project’s description and if I may
make an appointment to come and see them. In doing so, both museums have
positively responded to my emails, provided photos of helpful icons, and guided me in
scheduling an object-inquiry appointment.

Large-scale Resurrection of Christ icons with feast scenes. Icon, egg tempera on board.
Photography by the Museum of Russian Icons, Tallinn, Estonia.

Using my past experience from my Tyler project in Riga on Russian lacquer art, I was
much better prepared packing-wise for this trip. As the FSU Libraries’ Office of Digital
Research and Scholarship generously re-rented their photogrammetry kit to me, a
ginormous computer bag full of equipment, I now had the knowledge and experience to
only pack and take what I needed. In doing so, I bought a smaller camera bag insert
from Amazon and only brought my lenses, the camera, a charger and batteries, and
some quality-of-life items. I can then slip this insert into my regular school backpack,
which is ⅛ the size of the photogrammetry bag, and use this instead. No more
20-minute walks with a 30-pound backpack on while going to my interviews!

Mary Joy of All Mourners. Icon, punching, enameling, gold-plating sheet of bronze, enamel, gold. Photography by the Kadriorg Museum, Tallinn, Estonia.

A new and wonderful aspect of my stay in Estonia is that I am living with a Russian host
family. Instead of being in a student apartment, like in Riga, my host family has so kindly
welcomed me into their family. One incredible plus of this choice is that American
Councils, the study abroad program that placed me with this family, deliberately did so
because the mother is a regularly-attending Russian Orthodox Christian. As a result, I
now have a Russian-speaking companion and well-versed Christian to help me with my
interviews at local churches and monasteries. This will enable me to experience
Orthodox church life authentically while being better informed.

Some goals I have for this project and study abroad experience is to improve my health
and communication habits, two essential facets of conducting efficient and satisfactory
research. My host mother cooks me homemade-from-scratch meals that leave me full
and ready for the day while also encouraging me to get as much sleep as possible.
Compared to my life back at Florida State, I mainly live off of Raising Cane’s and Pub
Subs. So, learning from her cooking skills and time management to make meals after
work is already beginning to leave a seriously impactful impression on me. Regarding
communication, my family likes to know where I am and when, encouraging me to think
more proactively about my schedule and planning things in advance; rather than moving
through my day as I go. In this way, communicating better with my host family also
improves my time management.

Camera bag insert. Photography by Sophie Works, Tallinn, Estonia.

Overall, I am over the moon with my situation in Estonia. My research and language
learning ability are in great starting positions, giving me the confidence that my project
will come along just as nicely, but with fewer obstacles than my previous one.
But that’s all for this time! Thank you very much for reading, and I look forward to talking
more about my project and life in Estonia next month.

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